This paper presents a theoretical investigation of nonlinear surface-wave propagation over a sloping bottom. For a problem with nonlinear surface-wave propagation over a sloping bottom, a perturbation method is first used to find the analytical solution in order to derive the third order terms for the bottom slope and the wave steepness in the Eulerian system. Then, by transforming the flow field solution from the Eulerian system into the Lagrangian system, a more accurate wave profile is identified. By using the kinematic stability parameter, new theoretical breaking-wave characteristics are derived. The theoretical solutions are then compared with those from other research. The results reveal that the present solution reasonably describes the wave-breaking phenomenon. In this paper, a new theoretical solution for the breaking-wave characteristics is provided, and it is a useful approach for predicting breaking-wave characteristics.
Tseng, Wen-Jer and Cheng, Chia-Yan
"NONLINEAR BREAKING-WAVE CHARACTERISTICS IN LAGRANGIAN COORDINATES,"
Journal of Marine Science and Technology: Vol. 28
, Article 1.
Available at: https://jmstt.ntou.edu.tw/journal/vol28/iss3/1