To study the mean water surface in the shallow water, it is necessary to compute the wave set-up and set-down of random waves on the surf zone. Therefore, the breaking wave spectra and radiation stress must be calculated from a wide-band breaking wave model. In this study, we extend the breaking wave spectrum model (Yang, 1991) by using the Wallops spectrum in the deep water. The Wallops spectrum is based on wave dynamics theoretical analysis and no empirical coefficients to be determined by the users. It also contents correct energy (Huang et al., 1981). The breaking wave spectra, radiation stress, and set-down set-up are presented graphically with distance from shoreline. It is shown that the results agree with the model (Yang, 1991) which used Pierson spectrum in the deep water.
"Breaking Wave Spectrum and Set-Down Set-Up in Shallow Water,"
Journal of Marine Science and Technology: Vol. 1
, Article 11.
Available at: https://jmstt.ntou.edu.tw/journal/vol1/iss1/11